![]() Look at pages 2 and 3, temps of engine, speeds, times of run and off soak need to be followed. In order to learn all this drive cycle gunk again, you have to follow a step-by-step list of what the ecu needs to see in-order to run the next drive cycle. If you have a flat battery or reset your engine fault codes (even with no codes stored), this will clear out all readiness monitors and sometimes wipe out fuel adaptions and misfire profile corrections. Meaning if the emissions components are working on your vehicle, then all the readiness monitors will show completed/passed status (OBD C.A.R.B Approved). The reason emissions stations look at the readiness status, is to know if the vehicle is running as designed. Otherwise the tech would just be replacing a part and hoping for the best.if the readiness monitor failed for the secondary pump and it's been replaced, this would prove the pump was not the fault or main reason for the fault and issue is still present. The only way this tech is going to know the Secondary Pump issue is resolved, is by clearing the faults and completing the drive cycle monitors to show readiness is complete and OK. A tech diagnoses and flags the pump as the fault and replaces. So, for example lets say your Secondary Air Pump eats the dust and a code is stored. The OBD Readiness codes are NOT fault codes indicating an issue is present, their mainly for emissions stations and to verify a repair has completed. You can drive hundreds of miles for weeks and still not complete the OBD drive cycles required to complete the OBD Readiness Codes. Have you cleared the code and it came back? If so, how long between intervals? I even flashed the car back to stock for the heck of it and it still says system not ready.Ĭan anyone shed some light on this matter? ThanksIs it throwing any codes? Can you post the output of auto-scanning with VCDS? I’m stage one with an x pipe and an intake but I really don’t think those would be causing the issues. ![]() I put on about 220 miles on my car and it still says system not ready. Everything checked out except the part where the guy was asking me if I had work done on my car recently or if my battery died because on the computer it comes up as system not ready so he failed me for inspection right then and there.įast forward to a week later and I had asked my shop where I take my car and they told me to just drive it for a few miles and my car will be fine. ![]() *Consult your owner’s manual for specific drive cycle information.Hey guys so I’ve been up for inspection in jersey for some time now and have stopped being lazy and finally have taken my car to get the car inspected. Decelerate to 20 mph without braking or depressing the clutch.Ħ. Hold at a steady 55 mph for at least three (3) minutes.ĥ. Turn the air conditioning and the rear defrost off and accelerate to 55 mph under moderate and constant acceleration. As soon as the engine starts, idle the engine in drive for 2 1/2 minutes with the air conditioning and the rear defrost on.Ĥ. The ignition key must not be left on prior to the cold start otherwise the heated oxygen sensor may not run.ģ. Coolant temperatures must be below 122 ☏ and the difference between coolant and air temperatures read by the sensors must be within 11 degrees.Ģ. The generic drive cycle begins with a cold start. Important! If you choose to use this generic drive cycle, you must obey all traffic laws and drive in a safe manner.ġ. THIS IS A GENERIC DRIVE CYCLE AND IS NOT GUARANTEED TO CLEAR ALL READINESS MONITORS!
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